Exclusive interview on her inspiration and winning formula!
The L'Oréal Style & Colour Trophy was held this year in a brand new, super-safe, Covid-protocol-friendly format at Raeesa International in Parkhurst, Johannesburg. The inspirational theme, French Balayage, is topical and relevant to salons, and the judging process assessed all aspects of the technical work, the application, the end result, and the commercial effect.
In first place, Shelene Shaer from Tanaz Hair.
Hairnews interviewed Shelene this week to explore her ideas, her formula and her inspiration.
Q1: What excited you the most about the theme for this year’s Colour Trophy, French Balayage, and why did you enter?
Balayage is my speciality and the reason I love it is that it is a form of art. There is so much thought that goes into the placement and this gives the hair a more organic look. In today’s world where time and money are a problem this technique allows you to make the most of a hairstyle. It makes a colour that can be quite strong and bold look incredibly natural because of the way it flows softly from the roots to the ends.
Pictured above: @minkimcolorist @sheleneshaer
Q2: What inspired your chosen balayage look?
I was inspired by Paris In Autumn, Expresso, Baguette, Croissants and all the shades of gold, cream, and champignons. For the competition I wanted to break away from the traditional blondes that are being created and I wanted to show people that you can get beautiful cool/warm tones that work with any shade of natural hair.
Pictured above: @hiltonsophia @sheleneshaer
Q3: What colours did you use? Please share the formulas and techniques you used, and why you used them?
Step One: I prepped the hair with Metal detox and then sectioned the hair.
Step Two: I mixed my four formulas:
1. Dia Richesse 4.15 and 9vol (to create depth at the root areas and in the “V” of my Balayage area.)
2. Studio 8 with Bonder inside Ratio 1 + 2 with 20vol. (For areas where I need slower clean lift)
3. Studio 8 with Bonder inside Ratio 1 + 2 with 30vol. (For areas where I needed more control )
4. Studio 8 with Bonder inside Ratio 1 + 3 with 30vol. (For areas where I needed more saturation)
Step Three: Application
Nape Area: I applied my 20vol formula here. The reason for this is the slower lift buys me time as I work around the head. I used a mixture of fine weaving and some “teasy” lights all applied in a French Balayage motion to get a clean blended flow.
My sectioning is all in triangular placements allowing continual negative space to build into the colour.
Occipital area: I used a typical Balayage application using my 1-2 ratio with 30 vol roots to just past mid length, and 1-3 ratio on the ends for saturation. In the alternate V’s and W’s I used the Dia Richess 4.15 and a marrying blend technique to connect the colour with the Blondor 8.
Crown and Top area: used the “teasy” method to increase the shadow and blend using Blondor and 20vol. (We wanted to retain the warmth in this area)
Temple, Parietal Ridge & Hairline: All these areas below the crown needed more lift so were encapsulated in foil. I started with Blondor and 20vol 1 + 2.
The Money Piece: I used Blondor with 30vol 1+2. As I moved diagonally in towards the crown and back, I did Balayage with Blondor 30vol 1+2 and saturated the ends with Blondor 30vol 1 + 3.
Step 4:
By the time I had applied to the front area, the back was ready to rinse and it was time to start the glossing process in the back. Purposefully I have undercoats ranging from 6 to 8 levels. I wanted this so I could achieve a variety of colours. (cooler on the underneath and around the face and warmer on the two areas.) I used a colour melt technique for my French browns.
1. Dia Richesse 4.15 9vol
2. Dia Richesse 6.12 9vol
3. Dia Light 8.11 (2 parts) 10.12 (1 part) 9vol
Applied 4.15 to the root area followed by the Dia Light mixture on the ends and then used the 6.12 midshaft to colour melt. I processed the toner for about 15 mins.
Step 5:
Back to the basins to rinse the toner at the back and the remaining Balayage.
Step 6:
Pro Tip I resprayed Metal Detox and did the top colour melt as per step 5. This took me about 10 minutes and then I did a quick blend with the remaining Dia Light over all the hair for an extreme gloss to my French Balayage.
Step 7:
Shampoo with Metal Detox Care followed by the Metal Detox Mask.
Step 8: Styling
I used L'Oréal Professionnel série Expert Blow Dry Fluidifier.
Finished with Infinium Extreme Hairspray and Liss Control Plus
Pictured above: @matthewstylist @sheleneshaer @nadicci @thewallgroup
Q4: What was it like participating in such a different competition with Covid protocols in place?
We have been practicing these protocols with clients and the setup was no different to how we function in the salon. The complexity of the competition was that it was filmed and that took focus from a time point of view, that I would usually use to focus on my work.
Q5: Talking of Covid, how have you found the salon ownership journey has changed over the past year and a half, and how has lockdown affected your business?
We decided to experience Covid with a positive attitude and came up with the following slogan
Courage
Opportunity
Vision
Inspiration/Initiative/Innovation
Determination/Direction/Dream & Drive
It is an attitude we have decided on. We are resilient, innovative, adaptable, flexible and strive for perfection as I have a solid team backing me. It takes a lot of work and dedication, I also have a 28 year old partnership with Richard and together we support each other in the business to always make it work, and we can get through everything and anything.
As a salon we are privileged with the space which makes social distancing so much easier.
Pictured above: @christophegaillet_official @sheleneshaer
Q6: Has the win had a positive impact so far – what do your clients and team think of this amazing achievement?
We are still taking it all in, however it has been an amazing experience for the team. We spent weeks building up to the competition, trying new colours and techniques and working with clients, which was very inspirational.
Q7: What do you feel the next year will bring and how are you planning for the future at Tanaz?
The sky is the limit in a changing world and we are all about innovating ourselves. We would love to inspire all young stylists to keep learning, take pride in education and make themselves available to accept any opportunity, to expand your knowledge and never stop learning.
Pictured above: @sheleneshaer @trevorsorbie
Q8: What advice can you pass on to other stylists who would love to win a major competition one day? What are your hints and tips for success?
Trust your instinct, never stop learning. Education is key and your team support is the cornerstone to winning. Take hold of all opportunities, for example, attending courses.
I have had the privilege of spending a day with each one of the following stylists in the last few years: @berrniottjes @matthewstylist @christophegaillet_official @minkimcolorist @guylainemartelartist @mathieucolourist.localb @nadicci @hiltonsophia @harriet_stokes @trevorsorbie @viviennemackinder @scottsloan to name but a few.
The L’Oréal International conferences have exposed me to so many more other incredible workshops and lectures - my most inspiring one in 2018 was with @hairbyadir (Pictured below)
Follow more of the people/organisations mentioned above :
@taryn_bloem_pro @tanazhbn @sheleneshaer @lorealpro @berrniottjes @matthewstylist @christophegaillet_official @minkimcolorist @guylainemartelartist @mathieucolourist.localb @nadicci @hiltonsophia @harriet_stokes @trevorsorbie @viviennemackinder @scottsloan @thewallgroup @weareaniceplace @notanotheracademy @virtuelabs @trevorsorbie @harriet_stokes @hunter.collective
